From Concept to Production — our process

Developing a garment from an idea into a production-ready sample involves several distinct stages. At 96Failure Studio, we guide you through each one — from the first conversation about your concept, through digital patternmaking, 3D visualisation, toile construction and fit review, all the way to a finished sample ready for manufacture.

Here's what the process looks like from start to finish.

01|Consultation

Every project starts with a free consultation. This is where we get to know your design, your label, and your goals.

To make the most of this first conversation, we ask that you send through as much detail as you can to hello@96failure.com before we connect. This might include:

  • Sketches or technical flats

  • Reference images or garments you love

  • Mood boards or inspiration imagery

  • Fabric swatches or fabric details

  • A tech pack if you have one

  • Details on your target market, sample size, price point, and production goals

The more you can share upfront, the better. Sending everything through by email first means we can review your project properly before we respond so when we do get back to you, we can give you a genuine assessment of scope, feasibility, and an accurate quote rather than a ballpark guess.

There's no obligation and no brief is too early stage. If you have an idea and you're not sure how to move it forward, this is exactly the right place to start.

→ Send your project details to hello@96failure.com

02|Pattern Development

Once we have a clear brief, we build your digital pattern developed specifically for your nominated sample size.

Unless otherwise requested, we sample in a Women's Size 10 or Men's Large as our default. If your label works to a different size, a custom fit model, or an existing block and sizing system, just let us know. We're happy to work within your established standards. If you already have blocks or a grading system you use, send them through and we'll build from those rather than starting from scratch.

Your pattern is constructed with all seam allowances, notches, grain lines, and construction notes included. Working digitally allows us to make accurate adjustments efficiently and share the pattern file with manufacturers anywhere in the world once you're ready for production.

At this stage we also produce a 3D render of your garment, so you can see the silhouette, proportion, and design details before any fabric is cut. This is one of the most valuable steps in the process as it lets you make informed decisions about design changes early, when they're quick and inexpensive to action, rather than after samples have been sewn.

→ Learn more about our Patternmaking Melbourne service.

03|Toile & Sample Construction

With an approved pattern, we move into physical sample construction.

Because we produce a detailed 3D render before any fabric is cut, you'll already have a very accurate visual representation of your garment’s proportions, construction details, and overall silhouette — before the first sample is made. This means by the time we get to construction, the pattern has already been reviewed and refined, and your first physical sample is a close representation of what your final garment will look like. There are fewer surprises, fewer rounds, and a faster path to production.

We begin with a toile — a construction sample made in calico (for woven styles) or jersey (for knit styles) — built with all seam finishes so fit and structure can be properly assessed. The toile is your opportunity to confirm how the garment fits and moves in three dimensions, and to flag any final changes before we work in your production fabric.

Once you're happy with the fit and construction, we produce your final sample in your chosen fabric. This is a true representation of the finished garment — the same construction, finishes, and detailing that your production run will follow.

→ Learn more about our Sample Making Melbourne service.

04|Review & Revisions

Sampling is an iterative process and that's completely normal. Most garments reach production-readiness in one to two sample rounds. More complex styles, or those where significant design changes are made between rounds, may require a third.

We walk you through each sample with detailed feedback notes, and any pattern adjustments are made before the next round is cut. Nothing moves forward until you're confident in the result.

05|Next Steps: Grading, Tech Packs & Manufacturing

Once you have an approved sample, you have a few paths forward depending on your production goals.

Grading — We scale your approved pattern across your full size range using Australian standard or custom grade rules, ready for production.

Tech Pack Creation — We prepare a comprehensive tech pack — including technical flat sketches, construction specs, measurement charts, and material callouts that you can send directly to any local or offshore manufacturer.

Manufacturing Guidance — We can discuss local Melbourne manufacturing options or offshore production pathways depending on your volume, budget, and timeline.

pricing:

Service

Patternmaking

sample making

grading

techpack creation

Starting from

$250

$250

POA

POA

All projects are quoted individually after your free consultation. Pricing varies depending on garment complexity, number of pattern pieces, fabric type, and whether additional services are required.

Ready to start?

Whether you have a fully developed brief or just an idea on a napkin, we'd love to hear from you.

Have more questions Visit our FAQ page

or reach out → hello@96failure.com